HUNter 486 at The Arch goes big on flavour.

The Arch Hotel off Oxford Street has a glowing reputation on TripAdvisor

HUNter 486 is the restaurant at The Arch – a fast-rising hotel that is currently in the top 10 London hotels on TripAdvisor.  Like the hotel itself, the restaurant has a contemporary feel and a refreshingly different approach – as you’ll have noted from our recent review of The Arch.

The service is excellent.  Little things make a difference – my beer came just as my aperitif was empty, for instance, not a second before or later.

Presentation was also good, and it’s of the sort where thought has been given to the best way to serve each particular dish – for instance steak-frites comes on a wooden platter with a big tin bucket of chips – stylish but still in line with the simple, hearty nature of the dish.

The menu is not huge but has been well thought out.  It’s big on flavour – artichoke soup with truffle delivered tons of taste, combining creaminess with mushroomy spice.  A side dish of greens – green cabbage, broccoli and mangetout – came just on the crisp side of tender and with all the flavour that in many establishments is boiled out of the vegetables.

Duck breast came with pak choi and date chutney – an interesting mix.  The sweet tartness of the chutney complemented the richness of the meat, while the pak choi’s slight acidity cut through nicely.  My only criticism would be that the gravy was a bit heavy; but the duck, pink in the middle and crisp on the outside, was just right.  Again, the chefs aren’t afraid of flavour – if it’s bland you want then you should go elsewhere.

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The chefs at HUNter 486 at The Arch certainly don't pull their punches when it comes to flavours, nor indeed in the eclectic drinks list

HUNter 486 does well with the food.  But it really scores with the drinks list.  There are two pages of champagnes – the house champagne is Veuve Cliquot, but I noted Taittinger, Ruinart, Laurent Perrier and Louis Roederer, as well as three rosé champagnes. The wine list has some interesting German and Spanish wines – for instance a white Rioja – and is relatively light on clarets and Burgundies; and the tasting notes are excellently written, giving a good feeling for each wine’s individual character.

Despite the temptations, I didn’t push the boat out and ended up drinking a Meantime Viennese style lager.  The fact that a decent beer is also available on the drinks list is a definite plus.  It’s in keeping with the hotel’s creative ethos which I also noticed when sampling the Arch’s afternoon tea.

There’s even a Somerset cider brandy, as well as a choice of whiskies and other digestifs (poire williams, kirsch, armagnac, and various rums).  This may not be the ideal place to bring your teetotal friends!

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The restaurant offers different ambiences depending on where you sit.

You can be right next to the open kitchen if you want, which gives a view of everything that’s going on (no dramas, though – alas for devoted viewers of Gordon Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares, everything seems well under control!).  Alternatively there are leather-walled snugs for those wanting privacy – and I’m told they also feature laptop plug points so you can watch a DVD if you’re eating on your own, or even catch up with your emails.

In summary, HUNter 486 compares well to other luxury London hotel restaurants and gets extra points for its drinks list and effortless service.

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Photo credits: The Arch Hotel.

The Arch is a member of Pride of Britain Hotels, a collection of some of the finest privately-owned hotels in the country.

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